Electrostatic painting is an application method for applying specially formulated solvent based coatings using electricity to control the amount of overspray.
Yes. Some are similar to airless paint sprayers, some are similar to conventional sprayers used for painting cars, and then there is the Ransburg #2. The Ransburg #2 is the machine that we use.
The first two use high hydraulic or high air pressure to break up and atomize the paint. The Ransburg uses no air pressure to break up and atomize the paint. The paint is dispensed on to a rotating disc. The static charge turns the Ransburg's paint into a fine mist. The benefit from a high voltage/low amperage static charge is that it charges the paint mist, wrapping the paint around the object to be painted.
The Ransburg's no air pressure design allows for much greater paint control and the ability to work in finshed areas.
The answers below are based on the Ransburg machine and may not apply to the others.
Absolutely not, that’s the beauty of the Electrostatic painting system. We have painted thousands of file cabinets in all sorts of offices without the customer emptying any of the files. In fact, at the end of your business day you go home and the next day when you return, your cabinets look like brand new and in the exact spot that you left them. You’ll never even know we were there…except for the beautiful new cabinets in your office.
Yes, the masking is minimal compared to other spray techniques. But, a breeze and/or gravity need to be taken into account. Also, things close to the work piece may be grounded that would also attract the paint.
Any metal conductive surface can be painted, from bare structural steel, galvanized corrugated cladding, and old brush painted elevators to finished office furniture. We have the right products to achieve the desired finish.
Yes, the existing paint must be clean and firmly attached to the surface to be painted. Any paint applied over an existing paint film will not go through the film and make it stick better.
No, some latex, water based paints, and oil based paints are bubbled by the solvents or chemicals in the new paint film. There may be other situations where recoating would cause lifting. A test area is always a good idea.
Painting over a new surface would eliminate any problems that might arise in the two examples above. However, in an existing situation it may not be practical, physically or financially, to remove the old finish.
The paint will touch up as well or as poorly as it would if it was sprayed with any other method. There are methods we use to minimize touch up that needs to be done after spraying (see the question below). There is usually some areas that require touch up after painting and the job conditions dictate what type of touch up (brush or spray) we use.
Yes and No, tight corners and complex angles may not get a full coat of paint due to the electrical attraction to the closest metal surface. Most of these areas are recognizable ahead of time and sprayed with a pencil spray gun prior to finishing, reducing the need for touch up.
Epoxies have excellent adhesion and chemical resistance. Some Epoxy primers will stick to galvanizing. Most solvent based primers will not stick to galvanizing over the long term. Epoxy primer is made with epoxy resins and hardens primarily with a chemical reaction, unlike common paints that harden primarily by solvent evaporation.
Catalyzed urethane is a product that is made primarily from urethane resin. This product also hardens primarily by chemical reaction. Unlike the epoxies, it weathers very well and is used as a premium top coat generally for exterior applications.
Most paints are single component, meaning no hardener is required and they dry because of the solvent evaporating from the paint after it is applied. Our Epoxies and Urethanes are two component paints, meaning they have a hardener or "catalyst" that is required to be added, which causes a chemical reaction to harden the paint creating a tougher finished product.